Landing in Rome’s Fuimcino airport felt a bit too familiar—taxi drivers in my face nearly running off with my bags before I even knew where it was I was to go, a bit of yelling at the driver when before even shutting the doors, he announces we’re going to meet really bad traffic, so we have to take the ‘long’ route to the hotel, a screeching halt and a shift into reverse gear, when I insist we will only pay X Euros and no more. Finally, we’re on our way, in a licensed taxi that actually charges by the meter. All along the way I know I’m seeing things of historical importance but with more than 12 hours of air travel making my head woozy, and all these winding streets, I have no idea where I am or what I’m looking at. No problem, I think. Tomorrow’s another day and, after a good look at the map and some tips from others (where to buy handbags and get ice cream), I set off the next morning to walk around the old city of Rome.
I started out in Parioli, an elegant and quiet residential district in the north of Rome. The neighborhood has mostly narrow streets that wind uphill and down, past grocery stores, flower markets and, of course, pizzerias. I had my first meal in Rome at one of these establishments—a simple but delicious zucchini and tomato pizza, fresh out of the oven in back. American pizza-makers really need to go back to the real thing when it comes to pizza, I think! Crispy, crusts with air-pockets and light toppings combine to fill one up quite quickly. I am still glad I only asked for one piece and not two!
I walk downhill from Parioli to and through Villa Borgehese, the sprawling park of Rome which houses many museums, fountains, monuments and even a small lake. I picked my way carefully through the damp park (did I mention the downpour that occurred about 5 minutes before I set off?). But, thanks to a detailed map I manage find the right walkways (vs. streets on which cars were allowed) and keep moving south towards Piazza del Popolo via Viale G. Washington, through one of the city gates into the old city of Rome and onto Via del Corso. My destination? The Trevi Fountain via Via del Corso, a major street which I had been told houses many small shops, and even a department store. I had also been told of a gelataria at the end of my trek, but at 9:30am, it seemed a bit early for ice cream. It was even too early for shopping, as the shops were just beginning to open. Still, it was the prefect time to see the city come to life. There were groups of school children on their way to school, the teenage girls window-shopping or the latest fashions along the way. Other citizens of Roma were on their way to work, displaying the universal frustration of being held up at red-lights along the way. I felt lucky. While I was under a deadline to be back up the hill in 2.5 hours, I did have the luxury of parading…strolling along the street of Rome as the natives love to do (although, they do so after work and into the night). Eyeing some tourist groups headed the same way I was, though, I picked up my pace. The last thing I wanted was to get there just as a hundred others did!
Following the signs and my map, I came upon the Trevi Fountain all of a sudden from a narrow street (an alley, by American standards). This was just the effect its maker wanted. The idea was to hear the water from the narrow walkways and streets without realizing where the sound originated. The reward for following the sound is this glorious work of art. Depicting Oceanus, the calm and stormy seas, as well as the four seasons, tossing coins into the Trevi fountain, it is said, guarantees your return to Rome.
After the Fontana di Trevi, I quickly cut across to the place I most wanted to see while in Rome. Built in AD118-28, it is an architectural, an engineering marvel, a temple, a church, ancient yet surprisingly contemporary in its design: the Pantheon. Originally a temple for all the gods, it was converted to a Christian church in AD609. At one time the world’s largest dome, the material used (cement) gets lighter and lighter as it reaches the top, where the oculus remains open to the heavens (and elements) above. The Pantheon also houses the tombs of some kings and other important Italians, such as the artist Raphael. Whether you see in the daytime, with the sun shining through, or at night when the oculus looks into the dark sky, the Pantheon epitomizes ancient Rome, perhaps even more so than the ancient ruins of the Forum and the Colosseum.
Checking my watch, I hoofed it quickly back to Parioli, via the Spanish Steps, a popular gathering place for Romans and tourists alike. I would have taken a photo except that the church to which the steps lead was being renovated and the gigantic Rolex ad just didn’t seem do the Spanish Steps justice. From the top of the steps, I had a fairly nice view of the center city. I’d like to tell you that is the Vatican’s dome, but it’s not. It’s just one of the many domes that dot Rome’s skyline. I did make it to Vatican City and St. Peter’s Square, as well as the Colosseum and other monuments in Rome, by night, which is a truly magical way to see Rome. Just take along a camera that does the sights justice at night, so you can share them with others!
After four days of ruins and monuments, as well as much wine and pasta and Italian culinary specialties of so many kinds, I shifted gears and location to the suburbs, where the real people live, I guess. A trip to the grocery store with friends where I drooled over real mozzarella cheese (I’ve lost count of how many pounds of the stuff I’ve had in the past three days) and another excursion where I enjoyed the sights and sounds of a Sunday market (just hold onto your wallet and hone your bargaining skills) contrasted nicely with the tourist’s Roma.
My only lament so far, regarding Roma? I’ve been here almost a week and still no gelato!
While there are some who say you can eat gelato any time of the day, 9am on the day I took my city center trek seemed a bit much, so I stuck with a café latte and a pastry. By the afternoon I was in meetings and dinner out brought with it all kinds of other tasty Italian desserts. The next day, again, no time for ice cream and on the third evening, during the Roma by night walking tour, although our guide pointed out the two great ice cream shops at Piazza Navona, with temperatures dipping down into what seemed like the 30s (Fahrenheit), a gelato was really out of the question! So, here I am, with one day to go and it’s countdown to a gelato after pasta for dinner. Looking outside the window, though, I’m wondering if a nice, steaming hot cappuccino would be more comforting.
While I didn’t throw any coins into the Trevi Fountain, I think I’ll be back (well, I know I will be in about 3 weeks). For gelato, and more!
Ciao, Roma!