Not in a hurry since I didn’t have that far to go today—just up the coast from Cambria and San Simeon to Monterey, I stopped to take in the ocean. It was in an angry mood this morning. Grey skies and waves crashing against the huge rock. It made me think that I had not really seen the ocean this way before. Cloudy, windy days on the coast, yes, and even thunderstorms while on the beach in Goa, but the big waves and the foaming as they hit the shore? Pretty powerful stuff. But, a lone soul seemed not to be concerned. It wasn’t until I’d downloaded this photo to my PC that I noticed the tiny figure standing on the rock, as if he or she was staring down the ocean.
Traveling north into the fog on Highway reminded me of the last time I drove on this road a few years ago, going in the opposite direction, though. Then, I set out at 6am when the fog was much more dense than now. I love the fog, especially along the coast since it does generally burn off by the afternoon. Driving in it may not be the easiest thing, but there weren’t too many cars on the road so I could enjoy the drive without an impatient pair of headlights in my rear view mirror. It’s like being in the middle of cotton candy, driving in and out of the mist.
This is what I had to look forward to for an hour or so, the road hugging the hillside in most parts and breathtaking views of the ocean and coastline. Sounds cliché, that ‘breathtaking’ thing, but even after so many years, I do still gasp when I come around another bend. And, it’s not because of the SUV coming at me too fast in the other direction, but because of the view.
It boggles the mind, why anyone would be speeding on these roads, even those who drive these roads on a daily basis, the local residents. Not only could a swerve have disastrous consequences but how can you not want to savor the views, especially when the sunshine breaks through? The blue water and blue skies are dazzling.
But, drive fast they do. Or try to. After a particularly annoying few miles with two cars on my tail, even though I was going the posted speed limit for the curves, I pulled over and let the two BMWs pass. It’s always the BMWs’. I swear, in the oncoming lane I counted seven (!) BMWs lined up one after the other, stuck as I’m sure they felt they were, behind a camper headed south. Seven BMWs. So much for originality.
On the east side of the highway, away from the ocean, and when the road is not clinging to a cliff, there are rolling hills and fields. Seeing the cows grazing in the pastures along the highway I couldn’t help but think of the marketing campaign for California cheese. It’s the best tasting cheese because the milk for the cheese comes from happy cows. Well, what cow wouldn’t be happy if it looked up from chewing and saw the ocean day after day?
Just a few miles south of Monterey is the spot where it all began, this thing I have for the Big Sur coastline. Several years ago I drove south for the first time on Highway 1 from Monterey, having heard so much about the drive and the views. I had only really seen the Pacific Ocean once before, so up close and personal. As I left the city of Carmel behind, past the traffic signals and other trappings of town driving, there was this small beach. Since then—and I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve actually driven from Monterey to Big Sur and back since then—I make it a point to stop here, if only for a few minutes. Call it a ritual, call it sending up a ‘thank-you.’ No matter how much things change or how rough it gets, in a weird way, if I can manage to find my way back here every so often, all seems well in the world. Others might need a spa or retreat, or drugs. I just need to see the sky meet the ocean and hear the waves to get a sense of peace. 
It puts things in perspective, the eons that waves have rolled (or crashed) on to the land, or even the number of years these trees have been around. Gnarled trunks that have endured. What’s a stiff neck or a few tight deadlines at work compared to what these trees have been through?!
What kind of music works for winding roads and ocean views? Depends on the mood and time of day, but today, I started with the apropos nod to “Shah-e-samundar"; Piya Haji Ali by AR Rahman and others from Fiza.
Shah-e-samandar ibn-e-Haidar
Shah-e-samandar ik nazar
Piya Haji Ali, piya Haji Ali, piya Haji Ali, piya ho
Yahaan Hindu, Muslim, Sikh, Isaahi faiz paate hain
Ye samandar roz dar pe deta hai pehra...
For the rest of the drive, the curves of the roads and mists set a mellow tone. A compilation of melodious songs from films like Mohabbatein (Yash Chopra usually had his heroines singing in the mist and on hillsides, right?) and Zubeida. Nothing jarring, no jhatka-marao-ing type songs for a dreamy drive along the ocean.
Dheeme dheeme gaaoon
Dheere dheere gaaoon
Haule haule gaaoon
Tere liye piya
Gun-gun main gaati jaaoon
Chhun chhun paayal chhankaaoon
Sun-sun kab se dohraaoon
Piya, piya, piya
-Zubeida
Ham ko ham hi se chura lo
Dil me kahin tum chhupa lo
Ham akele kho na jaaye…
-Mohabbatein